whattup32526

***FINALLY DONE***whattups 20 long build

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Ok ok ok.....

Ive put the nano tank in the closet. And realized I wanna just stick with my 20 long. Im going to start building a new stand, and turn one of the 20longs I found in my garage into a sump, and thanks to flricordia I picked up a nice 20 long which will be my new display tank. Doing it this way means I get to keep all my livestock in my origional 20l while I build the new setup. Im looking for opinions, and suggestions for everything. Im building a new stand which I need some help with. I want my DT to sit recessed to the trim in the stand, but I wanna be able to slide and/or remove my 20l sump if need be. Using the reefcentral DIY plan, which I used on my first stand, has the 2x4s that support the tank going all the way to the floor. Which in turn means I couldnt put a 20 long sump under the DT. So any ideas and help on this would be appreciated as the stand is my first step. I should have a few dollars for wood tommorow.

Next up. My DT already has already been drilled once in the top right corner, should I get it drilled again in the top left corner? So I can have 2 over flows?? The hole already there measures 1 5/8 " which I could cover up with a piece glass if need be. I saw on reefcentral a tank drilled in each corner, with a piece of pvc going from one to the other with a slit cut in the top of the pipe to work as a skimmer. Would that work fine? Or just drill another hole and put in a bulkhead with a strainer or whatever the heck its called?

Right now these are the only two things i need help with, once I get the stand built, and get the tank drilled right ill move to the next step. below is a pic of the overflow i mentioned, and the two tanks i got,

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2x4's will be too big and bulky.... Use 1x4's to build the stand. My stand is made from 3/4 birch ply.... You could easy use 1/2 birch to build the stand. I'd get 1 sheet of 1/2 birch ply if I was you.

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Ok, got that on the wood...but building the stand....if i want the tank to sitdown inside the stand (to hide the trim) it would have to sit on something,no problem, except how is my 20l sump with the same footprint gunna fit under the dt,

and i think im gunna go with that overflow.

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Well, since your going to use a pre-built tank for a sump you will have to make the entire stand a little larger than it needs to be. If you plan this out right, you can make it look nice.

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drauka   

best bet is to oversize the stand some and make the side panel where it could be removed so you could take the sump in and out.

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best bet is to oversize the stand some and make the side panel where it could be removed so you could take the sump in and out.[/quote

Thats a good Idea as well.

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Ok, well, Thursday night I finally got a chance to go by A reefers paradise and get my glass cut, It went smoothly after we discovered I had brought one pane of tempered glass. LOL. Joe scribed it on both sides several times, we even put it in the hand break, at which point it shattered everywhere, clear across the shop. But after seeing what we had left to deal with I ended up with a 7 inch high baffle for my drain in side, then the other side of my fuge is followed by a set of three 6 inch baffles for the bubble trap. BTW great job on the glass Joe, Ive never seen someone cut a 1/8 inch of glass off a panel. now the baffles fit straight in and dont have to go in at an angle.

Thanks to Chris, for digging out a Pro clear Aquatics skimmer to sit inside my sump.

Joe also sold me a good Cap 2200 return pump, my bulkhead, and a strainer.

So tommorow Im moving my current 20 long, modifying my stand (to my liking) the assembling the new DP and sump and silicone the baffles, and plumping. Hoping to start moving water and sand from my current DP to the new DP sunday morning.

Im heading to Home Depot early for 1 inch pipe, and fittings, and silicone. If anyone has any left overs I might could use please call me early!!! Im working on a budget, very tiny budget. Ill post pics tommorow.

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Just got done siliconing my baffles in......not too bad for a first timer, I was able to run a nice bead ( but then again im a welder so its nature). I should turned the tank around to take the pic, but when plumbed to the DP the drain is actually on the right...followed by a 7 inch baffle, the runs into my fuge, which is then followed by a 6 inch baffle which starts my bubble trap, then the return chamber.

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Stands done, looks alot nicer. the tanks sit ON the stands, not recessed in it. The sump slides in and out from the front, only drawback is that for it to all be flush at the sides (front and back) the DP has 3 inches on each side. No biggie though ill find something to put there, maybe a pocket with switches for lights and such, or a little compartment for my hydrometer or food or whatever.... starting the plumbing now. BTW anyone have a micron bag for my drain ? I dont believe in credit cards or banks so I cant order one, would prefer to come pick one up and pay you.

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Got done with the plumbing but im at a stan still, the fitting i bought to transition from the 3/4 return to my pump is too lose and Home Depot is closed :( Plus I need ro water since im adding a sump an need an extra ten gallons. Anyone see anything wrong

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drauka   

i am guessing yur pics are getting chopped off. Wha I'm not seeing is how the tank is getting to the sump.

Eveything else looks ok - I would paint the stand inside and out with a descent paint before finishing the setup

if not done already a ball or gate valve to turn off the overflow is a handy little item alot of people forget to add.

To get the most out of your pump most recomend going up one pipe size on the ressure side - i.e. - 3/4 barb use 1" piping

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Well, I was going to take another pic of the overflow/drain....it just drains when the water gets high enough straight down into the sump. As far as a ball valve, I have one on right above the return pump to control the flow into the tank. By controlling the flow into the tank that also controls the drain right? And my drain/overflow is 1" and from the return pump it is 3/4" then right where it hangs over the rim and returns the water I ran a 3/4 to 1/2 elbow to get a stronger flow.

Whatcha think?

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abrian   

Based on your description, without seeing a picture, I dont believe that a valve controling the return to the tank from the pump will have any effect on the water draining from your display into the sump. I would want one in the drain line so you could adjust the rate of flow from your display. Depending on your pump and the amount of backpressure you have from the reduction going into your tank, you might end up with water draining from your tank faster than you can return it from your sump. I am sure one of the more experienced members will either confirm or correct that theory. - Alan

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I think youll be fine. That pump only flows about 180 w/o head loss. Theres no way your going to overrun a 1" drain with that size pump. I never, ever, ever suggest putting a ball valve on the drain. You are somewhat right. You can get mostly about 600GPH from a 1" drain (no siphon.) If you are pumping 1000GPH back, then you see where youd overrun the drain? Your pump is to little to overrun the drain.

If you are worried, T off your return and just have it return to your sump. The "extra" water will just re-circualte.

Meleves Reef pic

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Thats what I figured, I mean no offense to anyone but I wouldnt think the drain would drain faster than the pump can pump when the pump is what makes the water drain

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drauka   

the reason I say put a gate or ball valve on the drain is so when doing cleaning you can turn off the drain and the sump pump and not have the water level in the display drop. And or to isolate the display tank (which is what I woudl use it for if I had mine during some maintnance operations.

The way you have your overflow described that shouldn't be a problem you will encounter.

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i couldnt sleep, so im up making water, and its looking like my sumps going to hold 11 gallons of water, wish me luck im getting ready to switch it all over. ill post pics late late tonight

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Help!!!!!!!!!! I hope someones up, how do i make my overflow drain faster, i have to turn my return pump way down to where theres no flow in my tank...in order for it to all level out...so how do i make it drain faster???? drill a bigger hole in my end cap on the overflow??? If i can get everything to run right i can get nice flow with my pump, i currently have a 1/8 hole drilled in it

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it was drilled, on the inside i just put an elbow on an put a strainer in it., i got it equaled out, having trouble with bubbles all in my sump ffrom the skimmer.....its all been running since 12am and its still cloudy in the DP.....everything else seems fine

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drauka   

i usually flip the output of my skimmer away from the closest baffle to try to keep any extra bubbles from going into the rest of the sump

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Ok Im all done, I was able to trade my old DP tank, and some other items for some nice live rock covered with coraline and filled with goodies. It was definitly worth the trip to defuniak and back, I left at 12, got home at 215, doing 80mph the whole way. Everythings running great, tanks finally clear (thats for the micron bag loan Joe). Skimmers skimming its little heart out(thanks chris). And my two fishes and hermits and snails are happy as can be. I was able to pick up about 50lbs of rock(thanks miles). Now I have the tank setup like ive always wanted heres the pics!! maybe after the meet itll be more colorful :P

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