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Humblefish

Holley-Navarre Water

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I'm doing some testing on the tap water here in Navarre and wanted to share my results. My day started off by contacting Holley-Navarre Water & Sewer, and they confirmed they only treat the tap water with chlorine (NOT chloramine) mainly to combat the smell of Hydrogen Sulfide in the water. I've taken many TDS readings of the tap water in the 3 months since we moved here and it is always within 25-30ppm (which is OUTSTANDING for tap water BTW). I also tested the tap water for the following:

Ammonia: 0

Free Chlorine: 0.5ppm

Alkalinity: 40ppm

pH: 6.6

Total Hardness: 30ppm  *Some really soft water*

(I need to order new nitrate, phosphate, silicate test kits.)

Armed with this information, I called Jeremy @ Spectrapure, and he confirmed I technically would only need RO water for fish - relying heavily upon the carbon block to remove the Hydrogen Sulfide and chlorine. If any Hydrogen Sulfide reached the membrane, it would exhaust it very quickly (so invest in a really good carbon block ;).)

Whether or not RO water would be good enough for corals/inverts will depend upon my forthcoming nitrate, phosphate, silicate tests (will post those soon). Also, too much phosphate & silicate would fuel nuisance algae even in a fish only, unless I wanted to run GFO nonstop. So, I might still want to use RODI for everything or at the very least use a SilicaBuster for the final stage.

More to come! :P

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drauka   

I have lived in a few different water systems in the area and all the water from the tap has always tested pretty dang good.  My current one is abount 60ppm tds out of the tap,  i wondered why my DI was lasting so long and if my tds meter was bad after I moved so I bought a new one and confirmed it.  60 TDS in, 0 TDS after 2 sediment filters, 1 carbon and RO filter (I run the 150gpd kit from BRS so the waste from one RO goes into the second then joins back to the DI canisters) and obviously 0 TDS after dual DI.

My water in Niceville/Valparaiso was around 120-130 TDS from the tap, same setup got it to 1-2TDS before the DI canisters. 

 

I had a TDS "wand" tester that I gave a friend in Illinois, I thought it went bad or something after she used it the first time, found out it was still accurate.  Her TDS tested out of the tap at close to 400PPM, another friends in the same area was just as bad and others I know have even worse.  

 

 

Edited by drauka
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bif24701   

Wow, that’s some good water. I thought water here on base was great ~130TDS, still not bad. My DI also lasts a very long time as I have only 1 TDS going in the first DI Stage.


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I went ahead and bought a Maxcap just to play it safe: http://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/RODI-SYSTEMS/MaxCap-Manual-Flush-180-GPD-RO-DI-System

You know how it goes... You lose livestock to something unknown, and then start second guessing your decision not to use DI water. Hopefully I won't have to change the membrane/DI resin too often.

However, I will still post tap water nitrate, phosphate, silicate results once I get my new test kits.

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