Amphispur

Turning on/off Maxi Jet Powerheads on a Cycle?

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Hey all,

the university has a nice display tank I care for, and we have major algae problems so I want to "randomize" tank flow to help get rid of some of the algae. I was thinking we have quite a number of maxi jets, so I'd set them up into two systems: 

one with 2-3 maxi jets, and one with 3-4. (Rough numbers, I'm not looking at the tank rn to check.) Could I set the pumps up on 30 minute intervals? (Home Depot timers) or would this be too much strain on the pumps?

 

thanks!!!

Zach

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Moat   

You can but it will shorten the life on the pumps. They make specific pumps for doing what you are seeking for water movement. The cheap versions are Chinese knock offs called jebao's. There are more expensive american designed but produced in china version MP 10 and MP40 but they are expensive. 

 

Generally speaking changing water movement may force some algae to tear off its surface, depending on type, but it will not remove the algae issue. There are numerous ways to reduce the fuel that feeds the algae, and many are very cheap. The easiest is manual removal and phosguard. If you do not manually remove the algae it will render the phosphate remove mute because the algae will use it for growth before the phosguard can remove it. There is a refugium for growing chaeto, a macro algae which will help control the excess nutrients that feed the algae. 

 

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Thanks Moat!

 

yeah, I've had refugiums and scrubbers in the past, my problem with this tank (and how it is set up) essentially it's a standalone tank without any sump, sitting on top of concrete blocks. I may start another thread to ask for help/how to redesign it that way I can have a full plan for my professor/boss Another problem I'm having to deal with is the back is painted dark blue, and the lip on the tank is about 4" out, so my normal HOB algae scrubbers are out of the question. Ideas?

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Moat   

can i see a photo please. You wont have to add anything besides a cloth bag with phosguard which i have extra of, but you would have to literally scrub rocks and tearing out algae if its green hair algae. 

 

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Moat   

Is the water being added for water changes and top offs RODI? if not our tap water locally is literally algae growth accelerators. Not sure if you have what the water parameters are, but if you take some water to the local fish store they normally test it. Some people are demanding on test results while others go off of view. The numbers wouldn't hurt. 

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Thanks for all the help moat, I'm leaving my dorm now and I'll get you those pictures. The water is RODI, I wanted to be sure of that before I even tried to counteract this algae. Water parameters are in the norm, phosphates rarely get above 1. But it also doesn't count for the "hidden" phosphates that can get trapped in the rock. (If that's not a thing please correct me, I was out of the hobby itself for two years but I seem to recall something like that)

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Moat   

.01 phosphates is ultra low. phosphates at 1.0 are high. the thing with phosphate test are they are garbage imo. I had a hanna checker and it would swing if i tested same water 5 times. rest of tests are mind numbing too.

If the water is RODI you will really want to look into removing the algae, picking frozen over processed pellet/ flake food and reducing said food and then going into a way to export the excess nutrients. That second video is my favorite way which is just a light and chaeto. 

 

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Here's some pictures of the tank

6348C60C-03B5-454C-9C79-FBD17534C1A1_zps

FAFEDF42-7AD1-4B64-8B76-BA927DAB6E14_zps

the second is an experimental algae scrubber with what I could find around our marine facility. We have a spare Two Little Fishies PhosBan reacted as well I can use if it'll fix the problem, among other things. 

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Moat   

there is room for a hang on back refuge. My very best advice is to watch those videos, less than an hour of your time. Then choose what you think would work best based off of budget and time. As long as your willing to put in the work you should tackle the issue. Interested in seeing front of tank. Good luck and im sure you will hear other's opinions. 

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I'll do my best to get a front tank shot, probably should have mentioned this earlier but the tanks face the outside. They are shaded and covered but some light can obviously pass through... as I said. Nightmarish caring for haha

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I think I'm going to go with the converting a canister filter to a macroalgae reactor. I just need to get some led lights and some source for the macro algae. Do you think you could lead me in the right direction to who on the forum has macro algaes?

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Moat   

You could visit your fish store. I am going to guess you're in Pensacola so i do not know what they carry being in PCB. I use LFS, ebay, and Bulkreefsupply on all those things, someone may have some free chaeto local to you though.  

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7 minutes ago, megaloptera said:

How old are your light bulbs over the tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just replaced them about a month or two ago. I've been keeping the whites off and just running the blues for a bit

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Moat   

The goal of growing macro algae for most is to grow it faster than any other algae. If your successful, it will eat nutrients faster in its refuge than the main display's algae. Therefor starving the main display algae. If that tank has natural sunlight then your removal of nutrients to starve the algae via growing macro may not work. Instead the algae in the main tank will eat the nutrients faster than the macro. If there is just a ton of nutrients both can grow well. That is where feeding comes into play by limiting nutrient import. How often are you removing the display algae? What type is it? How often are your water changes? When was last time you checked RODI water tds or changed the filters on the unit? 

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Water changes are weekly, 30%. I try to remove the algae daily if possible, but most of the time it's every few days, as far as the RODI I'll get back to you on that as I have not been sadly, and same with the filter changes as to be frank I don't know where they are located. Algae type is brown algae, with very little green algae. 

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Found out my RO answers.... we get our SW made from the EPA and they filter it (I have no idea how good this is, I'm looking into it now), and our fresh water is tap (SHOCKED) so I'm going to be doing runs from the lecture hall to the facility to get about ~50-75 gal of pure RO water when i can. 

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Working on getting the materials still, they didn't have an led strip light so since I'm home for the 4th (in Tampa) I'm going to go to Home Depot and grab one and then grab some macro algae on my way out. 

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Moat   

right on, was interested in seeing the front of the tank. happy fourth. 

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Moat   

For a reactor. I wouldn't buy either but if I must. Red leaf

 

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They had some chaeto as it turned out. Chaeto mixed in with the coulipera, so my reactor is now 90% chaeto and 10% caulipera. Should i take out the caulipera by hand so there is just chaeto?

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