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perk73

New 180G Tank

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perk73   

I just picked up goheel's 180 to replace my 75. I will now need to refinish the stand and clean up the tank before I bring it in the house and get it set up. I'ts going where the 75 is, so that makes it that much more of a pain in the rear.

 

I'm thinking of putting caster wheels on the 180. I don't wont to be able to move it all around the house, just mainly scoot it out a bit if I need to get behind it. 

 

The ones at the link are rated up to 450lbs. So I was thinking like 6 of them, just not sure if the actual stand will support it being elevated (distance between the casters).

 

Any input or ideas? Also anyone have a flat tub I can barrow that will hold my 75 gallon livestock and water when I move it? Any idea on sump size, I was thinking 40 or 50? Anyone got one they wanna sell?

 

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/material-handling/casters/pneumatic/full-pneumatic-casters-200-450-lb-capacity

Edited by perk73

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bif24701   

When I first set up my 180 I used a 40 sump I made and designed with Matt's help. It was sufficient but I wanted larger. Are you planning to place the sump in the stand?

Aaron

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I would strongly advise you not to use casters on that large of a system(or any system for that matter). Those 6 casters would be rated to 2700lbs combined and with just water you will be at 2,000lbs and will easily top that when you add in all of the other equipment.

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I would strongly advise you not to use casters on that large of a system(or any system for that matter). Those 6 casters would be rated to 2700lbs combined and with just water you will be at 2,000lbs and will easily top that when you add in all of the other equipment.

Not to mention all the weight of the stand will be placed on the exact spots where the casters connect to the stand and not spread across the entire base. Best to really think out the design before setting it up so you don't need to get behind and don't need to worry about moving at all. Would hate to see the stand settle and split a seam. 180 gallons is a lot of water.

Richard

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perk73   

Going to start on finishing the cabinet finally today. Found a R-300 Sump for a good deal, and it's rated up to 300 gallons, so I should be good there. Any ideas on a pump?

 

Weekend after next I plan to tear down the 75 and move it to another wall then I can bring in the 180 and start setting it up. 

 

Question.....when I decide to transfer over to the 180, I will have 100 gallons in it already (the difference). Once I add what I can from the 75, will it cycle? Will I have to let the 100 gallons in the 180 run a complete cycle before I bring over everything from the 75?

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It is possible to have a small cycle for sure. Are you moving sand? I am not a big fan of re-using sand because disturbing that will definitely cause a cycle and possibly worse. Your rock should contain your bio filter so that should hold most of a cycle at bay assuming you don't add anything else before you give the tank an opportunity to settle in. One thing you could do is add additional rock to sump or add sponges now so they can populate and give the biofilter additional surface area to grow on them move them over to new tank initially which would help.

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perk73   

From what I read, adding a bit of the sand (a couple cups or so) was good to seed the new sand, but I was going to go with all new black dead sand.

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TrentN   

black sand? have you tried it before? I have, it looks fabulous for 2 months then........ You start getting chipping from the rock and some precipitation and it looks like dog doody. It's just not near as nice after awhile. But that's just my experience with it. That's an awful lot of sand to take out later if you don't like the look.

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perk73   

Painted, in place, just gotta plumb and fill. Wanna cover the inlet and outlet tube, any ref/aquarium safe paints.

4db218b04cb710f3084959d733ec308d.jpg

Edited by perk73

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perk73   

R u looking to sell your 75g tank when you have completed ur move to the 180g?

Yes, possibly, right now I need to get the bulkheads on the 180 changed. I'm new to this so I need to find someone with experience, don't wanna break the glass. Willing to pay to have it done right.

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perk73   

Got em out! I got a 2" bulkhead on the right, awaiting a 1" for the left because I fell the 3/4" was just a tad too small.

 

Also, for those interested in needing custom overflow boxes.

 

http://tfxrh.bgwnp.servertrust.com/product-p/06222016.htm

 

I'm getting the corner boxes I need. Assuming they need to go all the way to the top of the tank?

 

Also, ball valves, putting 1 on the supply, should I add 1 on the return as well?

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ScooterV   

What type of overflow/standpipe configuration are you planning?  With two independent overflows, each with only a single drain, I doubt you'll need or want a ball valve on anything on the drain side if that's what you meant on "supply".  For the return side and if using an AC return pump a ball valve can help dial back the return amount if it's too much, effectively just increasing head pressure. A herbie or bean animal would have a ball valve on the full siphon drain, but they are in a single overflow space and one drain for emergency.  You'd control your flow with the return, otherwise you'll get a flood restricting a drain if the other side alone can't keep up.

 

Did you measure the actual holes as well.  Between ABS, Sch 40, Sch 80 you can end up with a 3/4 of one type or a 1" of another possibly fitting the same hole, but they need to fit the hole.  Does the 2" bulkhead fit in the one hole?  That's a big overflow.

 

Edit:  I read "supply" to mean drain, and return is the return to the tank.  If by supply you means to supply the tank, and return as the return to the sump then I read it backwards from your intent.  "Return" though is the return to the tank from the return pump.  Maybe eliminating some confusion.  Overflow/drain to the sump, return back to tank.

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bif24701   

What type of overflow/standpipe configuration are you planning? With two independent overflows, each with only a single drain, I doubt you'll need or want a ball valve on anything on the drain side if that's what you meant on "supply". For the return side and if using an AC return pump a ball valve can help dial back the return amount if it's too much, effectively just increasing head pressure. A herbie or bean animal would have a ball valve on the full siphon drain, but they are in a single overflow space and one drain for emergency. You'd control your flow with the return, otherwise you'll get a flood restricting a drain if the other side alone can't keep up.

Did you measure the actual holes as well. Between ABS, Sch 40, Sch 80 you can end up with a 3/4 of one type or a 1" of another possibly fitting the same hole, but they need to fit the hole. Does the 2" bulkhead fit in the one hole? That's a big overflow.

Scooter is right you need to measure that bullhead hole, I would be surprised it will fit a 2" bulk head. I would prefer sch80 bulkheads but you have to go with a smaller size because of the hole size. So I wouldn't do sch 80 bulkheads. I think you are forced to do a durso drain on the over flows unless you make one return a emergency drain. You could make one drain a full siphone and one other the backup a keep a small trickle through it. That way you use only two drains.

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perk73   

There may be some confusion....

 

 

The left is a 1.5" which will have a 1" bulk head. This will be the line coming from the sump pump with a ball valve inline to restrict flow if needed.

 

 

The right is a 2" which will have a 1.5" bulk head. This will be the overflow/drain back into the sump, I was gonna put a ball valve on this line, but I guess it is not needed.

 

 

This tank will not have an emergency drain system assuming since I do not have a 3rd hole drilled. Just have to make sure my overflow is high enough and my sump level is low enough just in case.....

Edited by perk73

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