drauka

Trying It Again, 40 Breeder, Well Maybe 93 Cube

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drauka   

A few updates,

 

All the remaining fish seem to be holding up well.  If I cut off the powerheads and feed brine or mysis the dragonet eats like a pig so that's handy. On friday I am doing my last transfer for ick.  The 40 is still not fully cycled,  off the charts ammonia, going to do a water change on it tonight since it is so high.  I will move the fish to one of the 20s and begin Prazipro treatment.  the fish have to remain out of the main tank for a long time still so now is as good of a time as any to take care of any possible worms or flukes they might have.  With this hopefully I have taken out any of the hidden fish diseases that might have been in the tank,  all the other common ones would have shown up already to my knowledge.  

 

The main tank is continuing to mature.  the pod population is booming.  I am still feeding it to try to keep as much of the bacteria going as strong as I can.  Most of the corals are growing.  Some will probably require another try in the future.  Nitrates are still high but my color reading seems to suggest they are falling steadily.  With the new rockscape I have a area in the lower back of the tank where flow is not getting to.  I have hopefully solved that with a second used 130 gyre that should be here in a few weeks.  I plan to install it down low in that area and run it either pulsing or low constant speed to keep that area circulating,  should create some interesting flow pasterns.  Really looking forward to income tax refund coming in so i can add the VDM module and setup some pump profiles for the 2 gyres.

 

I have added 2 conchs to keep the sand bed turned and so far the seem to be doing a great job of it.  

 

Since I had the ATO programmed and setup on the main tank I moved the JBJ over to the holding tank to keep it stable.

 

When Richard built the Breakout boxes for the Apex I requested 2 switches and 4 plugs,  Currently 3 of the plugs are used for the ATO system,  1 for the trigger and 2 redundant shutoff safeties.  The 4th plug will eventually be used as a shutoff for a collection reservoir for the skimmer.  The float wont fit inside the cup the way the skimmer is designed so it will have to be in a reservoir.    The ATO also has one of the best safeties built in possible.. the reservoir is only 10 gallons.  Can you pick up that I never want to have a tank crash based on a failed ATO sticking on and flooding my tank with freshwater?

 

I also added the alert programming to the APEX to let me know if the ATO failsafe switches were activated, i can then remotely shut everything down if need be.  When I do install the skimmate reservoir I will add an alert on that too.

 

As for the switches on the breakout box.  1 has been programmed to turn on the refugium light regardless of the time.  The second switch is my maintenance switch,  when flipped it turns off almost everything in the sump and turns on the fugelight regardless of the time, the items in the main tank remain on.  This way with a flip of a switch i can isolate the sump and do water changes or whatever and the display keeps right on running.  

Edited by drauka

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That is what I did with my switches too. I programmed the first for fuge light override. And second to shut down the main pump. I also programmed my skimmer to shut off anytime the main is off with a defer of one minute after the main comes on to return skimmer to service. When controller box for power heads come in I am going to tie them into this as well.

Richard

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drauka   

I have it set to turn off the alarms, skimmer, return, reactor and the ato.  The alarms going off the last time I did a water change was kind of annoying and remembering to shut off the ATO was always something I had to make myself do right at the start or I forgot and ended up draining the reservoir. 

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drauka   

Tank is still rock steady with parameters. Alk is 8.9 and has been stable around 9.0 for awhile now. Calcium dropped a little but that is because I don't have it programed exactly the same as the alk. I'm confident now that I can run them at the same and get stable numbers. Calcium has dropped slowly from 425 to 415. I'll hand dose a bit to bump it up and update the dosed code to match the alk. Magnesium is pretty high still, I over dosed it a while back but it is slowly coming down.

Nitrates are still in the 20-40 range. I may bump the vinegar up a little more just to see if I can get sub 20 at some point. The skimmer is pulling a good bit out but it's a slow process.

Fish will be moved on Saturday to the 40 breeder for holding g while the main tank remains fallow. Since I had some extra time I treated all the fish for worms and flukes. The 40 is teeming with pods so I am sure the dragonet will be happy.

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drauka   

The fish were all moved to the 40,  going to keep a very keen eye on ammonia levels in that tank.  I cycled it hard with both frozen shrimp and some added ammonia.  I have Prime and can do water changes as needed till the system gets equipped to handle the sudden fish addition.  After trying my old ASM G-3 for a while on the 40 as stock i added back the gate valve mod... helped quieten it down a little from the water splashing.   I will say once you have a pretty silent system you are spoiled to it.  

 

All the fish seem to be happy.  They were zooming all over the 40 and tore up food when I added it.  The Ruby Red has been non stop hunting and pecking.  I will more than likely have to supplement pods in this system while he is in there.  

 

I tested the PAR meter out on the Seneye on Friday.  When I added the T5s I added the lenses back on the Blackbox LED, I was lazy and didn't adjust the program even though I knew the intensity was going up.  Well I was measuring 300 par at the sand bed under the LEDs..... no wonder I was frying some things.  I pulled the lenses back off and am getting a much better spread with them now and a more even PAR.  I shot for between 100-150 on the sand bed during the peak T5 and LED time frame.  this gets me 200 and up along the tops of the rockwork.  I still have plenty more power I can add on the LEDs but I am holding off till I change some T5 bulbs for a bit different color combination and retest the PAR values.  I have so far only seen positives from the change.      

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drauka   

Just ran a few water tests on the cube, Alk 8.9, Calcium 450ppm, Magnesium 1500, and the one I am most excited about. Nitrate 20ppm. After roasting my fuge a few months ago Nitrates had climbed from 10 to at least 80, the color on the API test was bordering on 160. So back down to 20 is a good thing. Once I get under 10 I will need to adjust my vinegar doseing to maintain some nitrates in the system.

I'll adjust the calcium dose down a little since that seems to be climbing and just continue to monitor the rest. Having the ability to automate the doseing is very very nice.

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drauka   

Yes and then shaking the vial after the test. Matt turned me onto the test strips for nitrate as well. I have compared them to the liquid test several times and am getting the same results. The fuge I roasted probably had 2 gallon bags stuffed full of cheato and untold thousands of pods. There was no way I was walking away from that event without some high nitrates.

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Good to hear they are coming back inline Dave. I have to sit down and test mine again and see where I am at. I backed way down on the vinegar because seemed like the display was having more bloom than I like so need to see where I am at. I will be dosing my vinegar Immediately upstream of the Marin pure block when it gets here later this week. Would be nice to drop vinegar completely but if I only have to add a minute amount I am set up for it and don't mind it all.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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bif24701   

They don't make it clear how important it is to shake the bottle for the API nitrate.

I plan to start vinegar dowsing soon, once my cycle is complete.

Aaron

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drauka   

yeah,  I even make myself watch a clock while I am doing nitrate tests to make sure I shake it as long as required...it's a pain 

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I watch a clock to and set a timer for the five minute waits. I shake my nitrate #2 for a full minute and run the test twice because when it says less than five in my tank I rented to not want to believe it.

Richard

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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bif24701   

Lol

I thought I was the ONLY STRANGE ONE! I run a few of my test twice to be sure. I have the time and I always use a timer

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, I also rinse my tubes with RO water, then tank water then take a sample with a dropper. Always shake, and if I'm dosing I check twice.

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drauka   

I use syringes to measure the test sample on all of my tests.  the variance on the lines on the vials is sometimes way off.  

 

If I get an odd test result then I will retest to confirm and then usually follow up with another test the following day just to be sure.  

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I think that due to human and mechanical error it is just safe practice to test and retest. Especially if it is a test that you will be changing or adding something to correct. Better safe than sorry.

Richard

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bif24701   

I think that due to human and mechanical error it is just safe practice to test and retest. Especially if it is a test that you will be changing or adding something to correct. Better safe than sorry.

Richard

Exactly my thoughts.

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Lol

I use a turkey baster and a little bottle. And my thing is was that 5 drops or 6!?!? Then I start over!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Testing has to be a solo job, when someone is trying to talk to you then "was that 20 or 21 drops!?!?"
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