Humblefish

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  1. Difficult Fish to QT guide

    Below is a list of difficult fish to quarantine, with specific recommendations on QT strategies for each group of fish. Angelfish (and their sensitivity to copper) I've never figured out if angels being sensitive to copper is a "thing" or not. They do seem to fare a little better in Cupramine vs. chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power). QT strategy: Best to just dose Chloroquine (better tolerated) in lieu of copper. If copper must be used, raise it gradually (over 2-3 days.) If your angelfish stops eating after raising the copper level, do a water change to lower it until the fish resumes eating. Most angels will show symptoms of appetite suppression, lethargy, heavy breathing before just dying in copper. Anthias Prone to uronema, internal flagellates, and deep water anthias can develop swim bladder disorders due to improper collection/decompression. To complicate matters, anthias can be sensitive to medications (never use Chloroquine on them) and the deep water species are sometimes difficult to get eating. You also have to watch out for aggression between them. Many hobbyists try to QT a shoal consisting of a dominant male and/or harem of females. Two males are a no-go, and the male will assert his dominance over all the females. While females too maintain a pecking order among themselves. So, you have to watch closely to ensure none of your anthias are being bullied to death. (If you ever see two locking mouths, one needs to be removed ASAP.) This article explains anthias behavior in much greater detail: https://www.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=266 For reasons outlined above, anthias might be the hardest fish there are to QT! QT strategy: Dose Metronidazole ASAP, but raise copper very slowly (4-5 days) when treating anthias. If they are eating, soak their food with metronidazole for 10-14 days. Seachem Focus can be used to bind the medication to the food. If your anthias stops eating after raising the copper level, do a water change to lower it until the fish resumes eating. Most anthias species have a high metabolism and need to be fed at least 3 times per day. Due to their sensitivity to meds, anthias are also perfect candidates for Black Molly QT: Black Molly Quarantine Blue Spot Jawfish Prone to their very own named disease: Blue Spot Jawfish Disease. It is uncertain whether this disease is parasitic or bacterial in nature. QT strategy: Treat with Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex) + Kanamycin (e.g. Seachem Kanaplex) for 10-14 days. This combination addresses both parasites + harmful bacteria. Chromis Damsels Very prone to "red sores" i.e. uronema, both externally and internally. This is one disease you never want to get in your DT because going fallow will not eliminate it. QT strategy: Treat with Chloroquine or Metronidazole IMMEDIATELY upon receiving. Because uronema can spread internally, it is also important to soak their food with metronidazole for 10-14 days. Seachem Focus can be used to bind the medication to the food. Clownfish Not difficult to QT, but sometimes Brooklynella (which they are very susceptible to) is not prophylactically addressed. QT strategy: Always chemoprophylactically treat for brook when quarantining clownfish using one of the following options: Dose metronidazole every 48 hours for 10-14 days. Dose Chloroquine phosphate (15 mg/L or 60 mg/gal) once. 90 minute bath using Ruby Reef Rally before the fish enters QT. 45 minute bath using formalin before the fish enters QT. Copperband Butterflyfish (and other finicky carnivores) The biggest challenge with these is getting them to eat. Copperbands are relatively tolerant of copper & other meds, but somewhat prone to uronema and bacterial infections. Both diseases will present as red looking sores on the fish's body. QT strategy: If your new Copperband is pacing or swimming frantically, odds are he will have no interest in food. Once he settles in, try the easiest foods to acquire first: Frozen brine, mysis, PE mysis, etc. (Sometimes you get lucky.) There is also a self-adhesive paste called "Masstick" they will sometimes eat. Next up would be to try live blackworms or white worms. And finally, a frozen clam or oyster on the half shell. (Don't leave either in the QT for too long.) Due to their susceptibility to infection, butterflyfish benefit from a 45-60 minute bath using Nitrofuracin Green upon arrival. Once in QT I recommend copper + Metronidazole, or Chloroquine phosphate to treat ich, velvet, brook, uronema. Gobies ** Prolific tank jumper, so use a secure lid ** The biggest challenge to quarantining these is preventing them from jumping out. They also sometimes carry intestinal worms + internal flagellates. QT strategy: Use a tight fitting lid over the QT, ensuring even small openings are made secure. (Gobies can wiggle through tight spaces.) Once they are eating, soak their food with API General Cure for 10-14 days. This will eliminate any internal issues. Seachem Focus can be used to bind the medication to the food. Mandarins (Dragonets) Disease-resistant fish which handles most meds just fine (EXCEPT COPPER). The biggest challenge to quarantining one of these is feeding due to its need for pods. QT strategy: If you can get a captive bred specimen (e.g. ORA, Biota) already eating frozen or pellets, that is a huge help. Otherwise you're in for a rough go of it. Some have luck offering baby brine shrimp, Masstick, live blackworms, fish eggs... If you ever see "Nutramar Ova" (now discontinued), grab some of that! You can dose pods (or add LR/chaeto with pods), but that only works in a non-medicated environment. When quarantining a mandarin, you want to get the specimen into your DT (where the pods are) as quickly as possible. The fastest way to do this is to treat with Chloroquine phosphate (see CP Protocol #1) and then transfer the fish directly into your DT after 10-14 days. This strategy is not without risk, so transferring to an observation tank (with LR/chaeto/pods) would be a safer option. You would then black molly test the observation tank to ensure the mandarin is "clean": Black Molly Quarantine Moorish Idol This is actually an easy fish to QT if you can just get it eating. They are tolerant of most medications and not overly susceptible to many diseases. QT strategy: Similar to a Copperband, try offering brine, mysis, blackworms, clam, oyster, etc. However, unlike most butterflies a Moorish Idol is omnivorous so you can also try feeding nori in QT. (Soak nori in RODI water if medication(s) are being used, so it absorbs the taste of that and not the medication.) Keep in mind that Moorish Idols have very high metabolisms and thus require multiple daily feedings. Puffers, Lionfish, Eels and other copper intolerant species Relatively easy to quarantine, but these fish do not always tolerate copper well. QT strategy: Puffers will sometimes do OK in chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power). However, puffers, lions and other copper intolerant species do best if treated with Chloroquine phosphate. Hyposalinity (aka Osmotic Shock Therapy) is another option for puffers, but it only treats Ich + Flukes. Seahorses/Pipefish Intolerant of copper and (probably) Chloroquine as well. Seahorses are prone to gas bubble disease and certain bacterial infections. QT strategy: Seahorses do best at temperatures of 70-74F, which discourages harmful bacteria from propagating. They are susceptible to infections which can afflict their snout, tail and gut. Triple Sulfa & Furan-2 are two recommended antibiotics to use. Diamox is the best medication to keep on hand for treating gas bubble disease, and an insulin syringe with a 26-gauge needle can be used to release excess gas from a male's pouch. I've seen Bio-Bandage (Neonmycin-based topical gel) recommended for lacerations. Pipefish are relatively hardy, but like seahorses do best in a low flow environment. Both seahorses & pipefish are ideal candidates for: Black Molly Quarantine Sharks, stingrays and eels Scaleless fish which are intolerant of copper. QT strategy: Chloroquine phosphate is the treatment of choice for eliminating ectoparasites found on these fish. Dimilin or Dylox can be used to deworm / remove parasites with an exoskeleton found on sharks & rays. Tangs (primarily Acanthurus spp.) We've all heard about how "hard" Achilles & Powder Blue Tangs are to keep. They're not. However, they do require a parasite free environment (due to their thin slime coat) and strong water flow for increased oxygen (they are typically collected in crest zones). QT strategy: Point a powerhead (or run an air stone on high) towards the surface of the water in order to create a disturbance/ripple effect. This will increase gas exchange and infuse more dissolved oxygen into the water. It's also a good idea to prophylactically treat with copper or Chloroquine, in order to eradicate any ich/velvet they may be carrying. Wrasses (Fairy, Flasher & Leopards) ** Prolific tank jumper, so use a secure lid ** There's a reason they are sometimes referred to as "pain in my wrasse". These fish flat out don't like being in quarantine; especially a rockless, bare bottom environment. They are prone to flukes and internal parasites/intestinal worms. Wrasses are not a big fan of most medications (so take care never to overdose with them.) QT strategy: Since these fish prefer to lay on sand sometimes (Leopards will burrow), it is advisable to have an area of sand in the QT for them. (Sand in a glass Pyrex bowl works.) You definitely want to deworm all wrasses using praziquantel. Fairy wrasses, Leopards, Halichoeres spp, Anampses spp, Labroides spp, Thalassoma spp, Pseudocheilinops spp tolerate Chloroquine well; Flashers, Coris spp & Pseudocheilinus spp DO NOT. When using copper, most wrasses seem to do better in chelated copper (e.g. Copper Power) than ionic (e.g. Cupramine). Regardless of brand, raise copper very slowly (4-5 days) when treating wrasses. To deal with the internal problems (you'll see white stringy poo if internal parasites/worms are present), soak food with API General Cure or Fenbendazole for 10-14 days. Seachem Focus can be used to bind the medication to the food. Being a "pain in the wrasse" qualifies you for: Black Molly Quarantine
  2. Hydrogen Peroxide *** The information contained here is subject to frequent changes as I experiment and learn more about the usefulness of H2O2 *** What It Treats – Provides temporary relief for Marine Velvet Disease. After a 30 minute H2O2 bath, the fish should be transferred into a Quarantine Tank (QT) and treated with either copper or Chloroquine phosphate. How To Treat – The following is needed: 1. 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (USP grade) - available at most drugstores or Walmart 2. Large glass bowl or container (Avoid using plastic buckets/containers) 3. Syringe or pipette (for measuring out the H2O2) and measuring cup (for adding saltwater to the glass bowl) 4. Metal spoon for mixing (NOT plastic) Directions: 1. Prepare saltwater for the bath by having it set to the right temperature and heavily aerating it. You can accomplish the latter by running an airstone or pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water for at least 1 hour (longer is better). Alternatively, you can use Display Tank (DT) water or even from your Quarantine Tank (QT) provided no medications/chemicals are present in the water. 2. Add saltwater (using measuring cup) to the large glass bowl. Keep track of exactly how much water is added - either in cups or ml. (Do this beforehand if preparing saltwater for the bath right in the glass bowl.) Make sure your fish has enough water to swim around and last for 30 minutes without aeration. 3. Discontinue all aeration before adding Hydrogen Peroxide to the water. Using a syringe or pipette, add 3% Hydrogen Peroxide as per dosing instructions below. Dip the tip below the waterline and spread the H2O2 throughout the water. (Do not allow any air/bubbles to enter the water at this point.) After dosing is complete, gently stir the water using a metal spoon. The reason you want to be careful not to create any gas exchange/aeration once the H2O2 has been added is to prevent the atoms from releasing their bond and becoming just oxygen + water. Dosing instructions: To achieve ~ 75ppm H2O2 add: 0.625 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 cup of saltwater. It’s okay to overdose slightly. OR 2.5 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 liter of saltwater. It's okay to overdose slightly. 4. Now it's time to add the fish. Again, do not aerate during treatment. The bath water should be perfectly still. It's okay to use a heater, but probably not necessary since the bath only lasts 30 minutes. Observe closely and remove the fish if showing signs of distress. The vast majority of fish will handle it just fine. After 30 minutes, remove the fish and transfer into a QT for further treatment: https://humble.fish/velvet/ Pros – Effective, easy-to-source “pre-treatment” before fish is placed in QT with copper or Chloroquine. In this study, a single 30 minute treatment with 75 ppm hydrogen peroxide "greatly reduced" Velvet trophonts on the fish: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/230234979_The_Application_of_Hydrogen_Peroxide_as_a_Treatment_for_the_Ectoparasite_Amyloodinium_ocellatum_Brown_1931_on_the_Pacific_Threadfin_Polydactylus_sexfilis Cons/Side Effects – Still experimental so side effects are not really known. It's possible some fish may not tolerate this treatment. *** Further reading on use of Hydrogen Peroxide for fish: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa157 (PDF: https://agrilifecdn.tamu.edu/fisheries/files/2013/09/Use-of-Hydrogen-Peroxide-in-Finfish-Aquaculture.pdf) http://www.masa.asn.au/masawiki/index.php/Hydrogen_Peroxide http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=212442 More info from the aforementioned study: https://www.academia.edu/23793309/The_Application_of_Hydrogen_Peroxide_as_a_Treatment_for_the_Ectoparasite_Amyloodinium_ocellatum_Brown_1931_on_the_Pacific_Threadfin_Polydactylus_sexfilis
  3. Free fish

    Fish rehomed. Admins/mods please close.
  4. Free fish

    1 - Yellowtail Damsel 1 - Ocellaris Clownfish Both free to a good home! I'm located in Navarre
  5. Salt mixing poorly

    Every now and then I'll get a bag of hard salt, and clumps of it won't completely mix. I primarily use Instant Ocean. The best salt I have ever used is Oceanic (hard to find). Mixes quickly, no brown residue, excellent trace elements, and I still have a bucket from years ago that I use for my wife's small office tank that has never clumped up.
  6. Salt mixing poorly

    Which brand of salt?
  7. Quarantined fish for sale

    Sorry, forgot to update this. All sold except for the Bluespot Goby $15.
  8. Quarantined fish for sale

    ^^ Price drop on the Bluespot Goby $20 Also open to offers on the clownfish and Helfrichi.
  9. Quarantined fish for sale

    Pic of the Bluespot Goby:
  10. Quarantined fish for sale

    Both tangs sold. Firefish, goby + clownfish pair remain.
  11. Quarantined fish for sale

  12. Quarantined fish for sale

  13. Quarantined fish for sale

    Got some stragglers I need to sell. I've had most of these fish 6+ months, they are fully quarantined and survived a pretty virulent bacterial infection; so I only want them going to people with disease-free DTs. Purple Tang $175 Hippo Tang $60 Helfrichi Firefish $90 GIANT Bluespot Goby (DO NOT house with small fish) $15 Pair of Black Onyx Clownfish $100
  14. We've all seen claims of ich, velvet, etc. returning after a 76 day fallow period. (For anyone wondering what a fallow period means click here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fallow-periods-going-fishless.190324/) Oftentimes, a fallow period failure is due to human error: The sick fish weren't treated long enough or the treatment itself wasn't done properly, cross contamination via wet hands or equipment, aerosol transmission (more info). It is also possible that undiscovered strains of ich (and other diseases) exist; ones with a prolonged life cycle that exceeds what we know to be true from scientific research. However, there is also this possibility to consider: Dormancy induced by a hypoxic environment in tomonts of Cryptocaryon irritans, a parasitic ciliate of marine teleosts Highlights from the study: This study demonstrates that tomonts of Cryptocaryon irritans become dormant in hypoxic environments. Dormant tomonts resume development in oxic environments at any developmental stages. We examined tomont viability following variable sequences of oxic and hypoxic conditions. Dormancy in hypoxic environments may be key to the autumn outbreaks of cryptocaryoniasis in floating net cages in temperate waters. So what does this mean for us and our fallow aquariums? Primarily, the study showed that an ich tomont (the "egg stage" which encysts to corals, inverts, rocks, etc.) can go dormant if the protomont crawls into a hypoxic (low oxygen) environment or anaerobic (no oxygen) region of your DT just before encysting. Examples of this include under your sand bed (especially a DSB), inside a non-porous rock, any "no flow" region of a canister or other aquarium filter. The study also demonstrated that once returned to an oxygen rich environment, these once dormant tomonts resumed their development and released theronts (free swimmers which seek out fish to infect.) How long can it take for a dormant tomont in a hypoxic environment to suddenly be exposed to an oxic (oxygen rich) environment? The world may never know?! So what can you do to eliminate low oxygen areas of your DT during a fallow period? Take any canister or enclosed filters offline, and sterilize them with bleach. Without fish to foul the water, your DT will be fine with just rock/sand for filtration and good water circulation. Speaking of circulation, crank up those pumps for maximum flow & gas exchange throughout the aquarium. (Don't forget to add a pump down in the sump.) Blow out your rocks (using a powerhead) and vacuum the sand during water changes whilst going fallow. This will "stir things up" and provide free oxygen to those areas. How can I setup my Display Tank to be "hypoxic proof" just in case I ever have to go fallow? Only use filtration with an open top (like a sump), and avoid canister filters and other filters which may contain anaerobic regions. If needed, take these offline if ever having to go fallow. Use just a light layer of sand; the deeper it is the more likely tomonts can get "trapped" down under there. Never have sand out of reach (i.e. under a rock) in case you need to vacuum it during a fallow period. Only use very porous rock which will allow plenty of flow (and oxygen) to pass through. More information on Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/
  15. FREE 3 Yellowtail Damsels

    Rehomed to a LFS. Please close.