jaredwaites

Forum Friends
  • Content count

    454
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

About jaredwaites

  • Rank
    Founding Member
  • Birthday 07/05/1985

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    Jman785
  • Website URL
    http://www.panhandlereefers.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Destin, Florida
  1. Snorkeling Areas To Collect?

    In Destin, you can snorkel near the east jetty on the smaller jetty called the finger jetty. It holds tropicals and cool inverts and there is always the grass flats near the Coast Guard station, I've seen plenty of awesome specimens at those two places while looking for stone crab claws.
  2. Par 38 Bulbs From Home Depot

    Exactly. But the price went down to around 50.00 if I'm not mistaken I was in there looking for some electrical equipment to do a 200 amp run at my cabin and saw the bulbs...I think it's definitely doable and I might just have to give it a go. I mean you can save atleast 50.00 by doing that. Innerarity Reefs, This would be a very simple mod that would save you at least 50.00 plus shipping. Plus you can make different variations of white to blue for custom applications. If you could do a Berlin mod then you could do this mod for sure without having any electrical knowledge, you just need to know a little about LED's and the overall system components that their of composed of. gremlin, How you in fact verified the amount of current that these PAR38 are driving the 3w LED's at? I'm 95% sure it's 350ma-500ma because any hotter and you'd need active cooling with fans. Right now they are using passive cooling methods so that should let us know they are driven at a fairly low current...but then again so are the Coral Sky units (350ma) but they do last longer, run cooler, and they have more lumen output because they are being ran closer to the specsheets. All the ratings and light coverage and lifespan from the Cree datasheets are calculated with them only being driven at 350ma. I guess this is is irrelevant though as I just had a brain fart....they have optics so they will still get the job done, just more efficiently!
  3. Par 38 Bulbs From Home Depot

    Yeah Nano-Tuners PAR 38 was just recently 99.00 glad to see it went down. Those are the ones I was showing you Kadletz! Although they are more of a flood light this wouldn't be a good choice for a large tank. This would be great for Nano's and Pico's. You would definitely notice significant spotlighting if you used this on a larger system where you had to use more than one. Another way to fix this is by checking the optics, the tighter the optics the more intense the light is so in this case you would want at least 60-120 (no optics) degree optics to reduce the look of spotlighting. Standard Cree XPG's have a 120 Degree field they throw light in...and I think the Royal Blue is 100 degrees if IIRC. Or Unless you raise the height of the fixture or LED's...and add more so they overlap...but that's a waste of money when you can build a better DIY retro LED system for cheaper. LED's is about saving money, if you don't try to save money building a DIY unit or price checking, then you'll likely give up on them because the cost of pre-made LED lights really sucks...and the premade ones you'll find are in fact 1W LED's most of the time and don't have nearly any benefits from switching from T5's or VHO's. But 3 Watt LED's will dang sure do the job...I'm blabbing sorry... A local electrical store in town has some PAR 38 5500K LED bulbs with built in heat sink just like Nano-Tuners. They have 7 Cree's (or equivalent 3 watt emitterr) and equal a total of 21W. They will grow coral as is but the coral is more of the red side of the Kelvin scale. A study done a few years ago by Dr. Sanjay Joshi shows that 6500K gives the best overall growth for coral anyway they have a 6500K as well at this store. That's a little too yellow for my liking, so I planned on disassembling the PAR 38 bulb and un-soldering their emitters from their 20mm stars/PCB's and installing some Cree Cool White XPG R5's and some Cree Royal Blue in place of the useless 6500K LED's. 4 White and 3 blue. All for a cheaper price than Nano-Tuners. Anyway just thought I'd share my plans
  4. By Jared Waites Below are the definitions from Google as of 2008, by typing “define:Dither fish”, or “define:Target fish”. Quote Dither fish - Fish added to an aquarium with shy or nervous fish. The Dither fishes’ unconcerned behavior signals to the shy fish that it is safe to come out of hiding, and/or that it is safe to breed.Target fish - Fish added to an aquarium with aggressive breeding fish. These fish serve as a ‘common enemy’ upon which the breeding pair can vent their aggression, preventing the pair from attacking each other. So to keep this short and simple here it is in layman’s terms. When breeding tropical fish, you sometimes encounter problems such as shyness, skittishness, and aggression. This not only occurs during breeding, but when they are pairing off as well. In order to successfully breed some Cichlids, or other fairly agressive fish, a Dither or Target fish is added. Convicts, normally make excellent Dithers because they just don’t care...what I mean by this is that they are just crazy little fish, and are very hardy fish. When selecting a Dither, its wise to make sure where they feed, and what they feed on. What I mean is, you should be sure that your fish can successfully ward off the Dithers without actually harming the Dither, yet while they are doing so, you don’t have a Dither invade the spawning site and eat all the eggs, or fry. Normally scavenger fish, do a great job at polishing off a spawning site. These types of fish include, any gravel pickers, Chinese Algae Eaters, some Plecostomus, and even some Giant Danio’s have been known to clean out a spawn site. Caution is taken when adding more than one Dither, as they can indeed work together in raiding a spawning site! You should also think twice, before introducing the same species to a pair. What I mean by that is, if you for say have two shy fish of the same species breeding, you shouldn’t add another of the same species as a Dither, unless your willing to lose one…or maybe…your pair! Normally fish of the same species are used, when using Target fish. But I’ve heard of Silver Dollars, as well as other fish being used, that are quick movers. While using a Target fish, your fish that are paired up and trying to breed, are taking the aggression that comes with breeding, towards the odd man out, the Target fish. This enables them to breed without beating up on each other…instead they are beating up on another fish. A large tank is recommended, with plenty of hiding spots. A cave, a log, a bunch of taller grass plants…anything to shield the Target fish from being harmed. So what we have learned throughout this article is that, Dithers and Targets are in fact two different things…but at the same time, they are just about the same. Good Dithers and/or Target fish. Convicts (Make sure they are equal size to the pair) Barbs (Tiger and Tinfoil) Silver Dollars Mollies (For less aggressive species) Tetras Rasbora There are plenty of other Dither/Target fish, that aren’t listed here…a lot of fish breeding has to do with experimentation. Good luck breeding! Click here to view the article
  5. 40 Gal. Reef Build

    I agree. I honestly have never rinsed Oolitic sand but have rinsed laterite/flourite/soil master select for planted tanks...if you do milkshake it...just wait it out like Roger said.
  6. 40 Gal. Reef Build

    Sugar fine and Oolitic sand will always milkshake up unless you use a black trash bag and a large bowl on top to help reduce stirring it up while adding your water to your setup. Even then it will still be cloudy but it won't take days to clear up. You'll need to rinse it until the water runs clear. Good luck.
  7. Mini-Maxi Anemones

    We have these at the Gulfarium Roger that way you don't have to drive so far
  8. Majano Pest Eliminator

    I'd be very interested in hearing some of your ideas! As always I knew you had to know more about the process.
  9. Majano Pest Eliminator

    Roger, I was lucky enough to meet and talk to the pioneer of this technology. It's called Mineral Accretion and it's done as you said by using an electrified grid of non-corroding anodes and cathodes. The metals they used in their patents however are hard to come by and expensive. Wolf Hilbertz was the pioneer of this new technology and together with Tom Goreau has successfully restored a lot of reefs in the states and overseas. I was working with Tom Goreau who is responsible for any Bio Rock processes in the Gulf of Mexico and was thinking of getting a grant from the state to work on building small reef's to help with hurricane damage to our beaches and erosion issues. Neat huh? Sadly Dr. Hilbertz died shortly after I met him but his ideas are still going strong Anyway this is not practical in an application as small as ours because electrolyzing saltwater produces nasties such as Chlorine.
  10. I Found A Company That Does Custom Acrylic Work

    Silicone will work fine for your application Trey. You can either buy some black acrylic or use Krylon Fusion to paint it. I don't know if you remember, but I can do custom acrylic work.
  11. Led's?

    Ok sorry I've been quite the busy man at work these days but pretty much anything over 22" Deep you should consider the use of optics. This intensifies the LED's but also causes noticeable spotlighting. To combat the spotlighting in the tank you'd want to increase the number of LED's your using by reducing the spacing between the LED's from 2-2.5" to 1.5". Deep tanks require optics to grow corals near the sand bed. My tank is a 24 gallon aquapod and I don't have any optics. I have no problem growing SPS/LPS or softies. IF you have any questions about LED's and can't reach me here, you can reach me at the Gulfarium on Monday and Tuesdays or by phone...685-1500. - Jared
  12. Cleaning Aragonite

    Roger, you should make this into an article on how to clean your sand! +1 rep
  13. Led Lighting Systems

    Roger, I think your growth rates are probably better because the light penetration is better which is giving better calcification. I don't have any good pics of my 24 gallon Aquapod LED setup right now as I have a HA bloom right now. But my SPS are doing great. I've been doing weekly water changes. 50% with some dry skimming. - Jared Roger, I think your growth rates are probably better because the light penetration is better which is giving better calcification. I don't have any good pics of my 24 gallon Aquapod LED setup right now as I have a HA bloom right now. But my SPS are doing great. I've been doing weekly water changes. 50% with some dry skimming. - Jared
  14. Building A "green Tank"

    40 degree optics are the tighest optics. LED's without optics vary but I took the few seconds to pull the datasheets for the Cree XP-G White and they have a viewing angle of 125°. The XP-E version Royal Blue is 115°–130°. The XR-E White's are 90°, however the XR-E Royal Blues, Blue and Green are 100°. Anyway I wouldn't use the XR series anyway, they've proven to cheaper but they also provide 30% less light compared to the XP-G. Plus I think Cree has found they are able to drive the XP-G's at 1500ma now, which would make them even brighter, but I wouldn't push it that hard personally mine are at 1 amp (1000ma) and are blindingly bright! As far as skimmers goes, I think a needlewheel pump or lower amperage recirculation skimmer would be my choice. Whichever way you go, you should look how many amps your pump is drawing and choose the best one that works the best for your application but is also green in terms of using less power. I wouldn't buy a knock off pump because it used a few amps less than a decent one. I mean some things your just going to have to live with...but if you make up for it in other ways, then it'll still be a green tank Water movement....well if you want to be green then you should use air lifts....they move some serious water, use way less power and you can see benefits from increasing oxygen levels in FO systems.
  15. Diy Fish Food

    Ya I've made plenty of DIY food before including some of the ingredients Roger listed above but also using Selcon, oyster eggs, DT's, etc. The more goods you have, the more you can benefit your tank. Rods food is pretty cheap and they have a good variety of ingredients included in their 'regular' food. That's what I feed to my tank currently and my fish and corals love it But if Rod's isn't your thing, than get the ingredients list for Rods and make your own. I even would blend up Nori found at local Asian shops to add to my food.