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Showing most liked content since 01/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Welcome to the Forum, @Humblefish
  2. 2 points
    I decided to treat my 10gal tank in my office with one capsule. Unfortunately, I can't have a camera a work, but the bryopsis had just about covered every...including my sand. I treated the tank approximately 10 days ago, and the tank is nearly completely bryopsis free. What is still there is white and dying. Completely effective...I did not witness any side-effects to anything. Happy Reefing.
  3. 2 points
    Don't you work there now ?
  4. 2 points
    Truly and honestly clean stable water, food, and adequate lighting is what gives corals their best growth and color. I did experiment with some additives and found they did more harm than good. Partly because my water changes are enough to resolve any deficiency or imbalance of micro nutrients/elements. Also because I found these additives changed my water chemistry and the corals had to readapt to the environment. Every single time I a attempt something new or flashy I find the corals just do better with the basics. I use Kalk for my Cal/ALK supplementation, with some vinegar to boost my bacteria power. Added potassium nitrate when NO3 hit zero, and Seachem Florish Phosphorus for when my PO4 hit zero. However I do find that some things have a specific place. Like Amino Acids can help supplement a starving reef tank. If you find a supplement you would like to try for a specific purpose try some for a few weeks. If you do not achieve the specific purpose you purchased it for then maybe you don't need it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    Thanks for the corals looking good in my tank
  6. 1 point
    So I tried this one coat stuff today, goes on like Elmer’s glue, I wouldn’t use it if the temp is under 110 out side. Went back to old faithful fast dry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 1 point
    Good interior poly is still $10-14 a quart anyways. Mays as well use what ya know works Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 1 point
    I always just use multiple coats of Kiltz primer and sealer
  9. 1 point
    I can get all that and more I am going to post price list on clean up crews shrimp and corals just waiting to get the list to post prices snails and crabs and all. Sorts is very fair on pricr
  10. 1 point
    Good stuff, Bif! I'd say the work you put into this definitely paid off. Do you still have that clam? -Kamran
  11. 1 point
    I'm interested in them and they got a great home my number is 850-221-8883 names Ron Sent from my SM-J327T1 using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    Hey folks, I saw someone asking about getting added to the forum and that he was having trouble getting validated or something. Can anyone offer some clarification as to what the problem may be? @lobstergrabber, his name on R2R is "Humblefish" but I don't know if that's the same name they are trying to use to register for this site.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks for the help @HolleyN with getting added.
  14. 1 point
    Biggest babies my Goni has dropped so far. This is number 3 & 4. 1&2 were so small they got lost in the sand. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    Holley I took care of the account. Thank you for bringing to my attention. Richard Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    For those that are interested..... https://www.navarresciencestation.org/reef-tv
  18. 1 point
    Looks nice. Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    You can but it will shorten the life on the pumps. They make specific pumps for doing what you are seeking for water movement. The cheap versions are Chinese knock offs called jebao's. There are more expensive american designed but produced in china version MP 10 and MP40 but they are expensive. Generally speaking changing water movement may force some algae to tear off its surface, depending on type, but it will not remove the algae issue. There are numerous ways to reduce the fuel that feeds the algae, and many are very cheap. The easiest is manual removal and phosguard. If you do not manually remove the algae it will render the phosphate remove mute because the algae will use it for growth before the phosguard can remove it. There is a refugium for growing chaeto, a macro algae which will help control the excess nutrients that feed the algae.
  20. 1 point
    Welcome to our little closet society of saltwater fanatics. One of these days we'll stand infront of the world and proclaim that we are reefers and proud of it. And we will frag anything if we think we could sell it, just so well can get our next fix. "Come here you little rock flower I've been looking for you" Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    I had to leave last Wend night and would you know it, the next morning 10 hour power outage. Possible I could get someone to swing by the house to take a look at things for me? My wife says things look ok but I am concerned about a 10 pack of ACROs i just got in from Battle Corals. Also may need you to fill and mix my Kalk ATO and check my ALK with my Hanna dKH Checker. Cant use cell, just basic internet service so please reply or PM me here.
  22. 1 point
    Tank looks great dude. Was dope to see it in person. The new that I got from you is doing great. Moving around the sump and has picked it's spot already. Can't wait until it grows out so I can move it into the main display.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks lobstergrabber. I'd have been calling regular welding places and never thought of places that fix boat props Anywhere, here's the result. It's not trimmed yet, and not going to until I decide 100% if I'm rebuilding it anyway and no point wasting more expensive oak. Looking for opinions though. In the pic the almost 2 inch lip left on each side is visible. If trimmed it would obviously be another 3/4" less of a lip. This one, or rebuilding, would still be trimmed to match the side benches above. One pic is top down. The lights were not yet added to the Apex and came on dark and very blue. Lights are on an RMS rail, which in turn rests on a rack I can push fore and aft, that rests on side rails. Top has lips and will be filled in with egg crate. Back is raised to go above the sea swirls but will drape some 1/8" netting across the back. Front picture is with door flipped open. It looks like the end is white for some reason, but it is oak. The edge of it is white, but would be covered by trim. So, opinions. Trim it and live with it, or move on and come back around to building this again later and have the trim actually hang down around the edges?
  24. 1 point
    It looks like they could be H. gibessi, Portieria, or even Botryocladia. Here is a good site to pinpoint it down. http://www.live-plants.com Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  25. 1 point
    I will take any monti cap frags you can spare!
  26. 1 point
    Man I love seeing the things that you tank just pumps out. The mushrooms I got from ya are still doing great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    I'll shoot you a message when I get home as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    I'm hoping one day my tank does as well as yours Keep up whatever you're doing
  29. 1 point
    Will do, I'll have an answer tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    nice thing with acrylic, just weldon some plates to cover the holes and you should be good to go.
  31. 1 point
    Lee I am on the hunt myself. I will let you know if I find one Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  32. 1 point
    Mono Argentus(Monodactylus argenteus) Unusual to find in the hobby, because the young and juveniles start in freshwater and then move to saltwater as the mature. The can but rarely get to 10 inches. Should be housed in a 125g or larger. They are omnivores but need to be supplied with large amounts of algae. Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    He's number 1 in the hearts of millions. Well maybe a dozen. Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    Since it's only until your new build is done I'd just keep a closer eye on parameters for awhile and count on more water changes if needed. All your rock is likely doing all the work already anyway, or can quickly compensate. Those canisters are also nitrate factories once detritus builds up in them so you may be better off. You just have a skimmerless system and relying on the rock. If bio-load is low I'd think you'd be fine until the new tank is set up.
  36. 1 point
    I want the nem if still available
  37. 1 point
    I'm gonna have to pass on the anemone, I didn't realize that I had run out of space for it haha
  38. 1 point
    Ok for what? A reef tank? Dude if you're on top of it, a 6x6x6 can be a killer little reef. It's your desire to make it a good one and your willingness to put the time in. Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
    Found out finally (blue sympodium) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. 1 point
    Getting somewhere. Slowly but surely.
  41. 1 point
    I saw a really interesting lecture on YouTube on Butterfly fish that was given at MACNA 2016. It is an all-around lecture for not just hobbyists, but collectors, wholesalers and retailers as well. It also gives some good insight into what happens to fish from collection to the store. I thought it might be a good reference for both beginners and advanced hobbyists, so I have transcribed it. I hope some find it useful. I will try and post a PDF as soon as the website lets me upload more than 0.03kb! Butterfly Fishes and their use in Marine Aquariums by Bob Fenner | MACNA 2016 (Transcribed by Larry Mott 1/27/2017) The following is a transcription of a YouTube video posted on Bulk Reef Supply of a talk given at MACNA 2016. The video is also posted on http://www.WetWebMedia.com. Bob Fenner has been a staple in the reef aquarium hobby for over 30 years. He has done it all, from collector, jobber, wholesale, retail, hatcheries and more in 3 different countries and has a background in the hard sciences. POPULARITY / USE Amongst the five top families of marine fishes; along with Angels, Damsels, Wrasses, Gobies … Some 347,487 individuals of 72 species recorded; imported (mostly to USA) twixt 1988-2002. Underreported doubtlessly as shippers try to avoid paying taxes. Of the three highest paid for fishes in one study in Hong Kong, two were species of Butterfly Fish. More are not seen because many die easily, in large part because half of the species are obligatory feeders of live coral. They have a reputation as poor shippers, largely because they are not feed for several days. DESERVED REPUTATION Easily damaged due to snout/mouth, spiny anterior parts of fins … About half of the 130 species are obligate carnivores. Some can eat up to 50 grams/day. Poor shippers; easily starved through collection (none are captive produced), holding, shipping. HOWEVER: Most early losses could be avoided through more careful handling, proper shipping …. And MANY species, including coral/poly feeders have been kept in captivity; some for decades. ALWAYS SHORT_LIVED? NAY Conde (1986) reports the lifespan of a Forcipiger flavissimus of 18 years (still alive as of writing); a Chaeltodon rafflesi of 14.5 years (ditto). Frakes (1993) wrote of a C. ephippium of more than two decades age, and Delbeek and Randall (2010) stated that several fish at the Waikiki Aquarium have been in their collection for 25 plus years, including a C. ulietenis. From: Pratchett, Berumen and Kapoor. Biology of Butterfly Fishes. CRC Press, 2014. BUTTERFLY FISHES: WHO THEY ARE Family Chaetodontidae (Key-toe-don-tah-dee): “Bristle tooth”; in reference to their prising teeth (brush-like teeth)… used to pry small invertebrates from rock, sand and the water. There are currently about 130 species in twelve genera. There are some undescribed species to come due to large unstudied areas. Palm shaped bodies, laterally compressed. Large eyes located forward on the body. DISATRIBUTION: Tropical to cooler seas, Atlantic, Indian and pacific (principally Indo-West Pacific) along rocky and coral reef shores. Most live in depths of less the twenty meters, though a few have been recorded at locations ten times deeper (600-800 feet). SIZE: Adults span some three to twelve inches total length depending on species. Troubles Keeping Butterfly Fishes: Mostly Induced Though the family of BFs en toto should be fairly assessed as somewhere to the left of “average” in terms of aquarium hardiness; by no means are they doomed in captivity. In fact, the majority of issues that limit their survivability in our care are a matter of their collection and processing. Main culprits: Consequent damage from the above such as keeping them in small containers so they damage their rostrums (noses), and subsequent poor acclimation and improper environment placement by dealers and aquarists. All BF fishes have pronounced “beaks” with terminal mouths, but the genera Forcipiger, Chelmon and Chelmonops bear particularly “long snouts”. You can imagine how easily their mouths could be damaged via netting and shipping. Two of the most popular are: Forcipiger flavissimus and Chelmon rostrata. Trauma in Shipping Further trauma in encountered in netting, bagging, and especially shipping in small volumes. Let me make this clear: BFs NEED sufficient water to lay down (what they do in the dark), to dilute wastes, and a large enough double bag to supply adequate oxygen during transit. When transporting BFs, double-bag and lay their bags down on their side (not just BFs). Troubles Keeping Butterfly Fishes: Mostly Induced Stress-Induced Hunger Strike: Folks who are fortunate enough to be both dive-adventure travelers and marine aquarists know that like most reef fish families of fishes, Butterfly fishes are out and about all light day looking for food. They may not be aware of just how starved BFs et al. are during collection to wholesale, perhaps to retail. They’re not actually fed anything during this time; principally to reduce the amount of waste (nitrogenous and fecal) during holding, shipping…. To prevent fouling, poisoning themselves while in crowded, little-water settings. What this results in is a greatly stressed animal that needs to be handled gingerly; catered to in terms of recognizable foods, and NOT placed amongst an established, competitive population of tankmates initially. What this translates to in actuality in covered below under foods/feeding/nutrition. Not a good idea to buy a fish straight out of the shipping bag. Inappropriate Environment: Many Butterfly fishes are lost due to being misplaced environmentally. These fish NEED ROOM much more than suggested by their size. These fish roam over large territories continuously seeking food. Only hundreds of gallons are really suitable, and those are uncrowded stock-wise and have a plethora of rocks, crannies, foraging and hiding places where they can easily duck out of sight. Minimum of 175 gallons for small species and 300 plus for larger species. Mis-Stocked Tankmates Especially when first introduced. It is important that your Butterfly fishes not be harassed by other life in the system. A huge source of morbidity can be assigned to BFs being chased, bugged, by larger, more aggressive fishes, and some invertebrates. It is paramount the YOU be a careful observer of your livestock. What may appear as just some glancing encounters may spell doom for your less outgoing livestock. Particularly during feeding times, PAY ATTENTION that all are taking food and none of your livestock is being chased away. If you have an overly aggressive animal that is preventing your BFs from feeding, either it or they will HAVE TO BE MOVED ASAP. The usual suspects to avoid placing Chaetodontids with include sharks and rays, larger wrasses and basses, big puffers and eels. Smaller, easier-going groups of fishes to be considered are cardinals, Pseudonthias, peaceful damsels, Grammatids, fancy basses and smaller Hawkfish. Collection/Holding/Shipping Trauma All Chaetodontids are currently wild-caught. As with the vast majority of ornamental marine fishes they are gathered by divers utilizing an almost transparent barrier, AKA fence net in the following fashion: On finding sufficient fishes on a reef area, these are “driven” or “chased” by divers off their territory and the barrier net deployed carefully on a weighted bottom line with cork/float top keeping it open and upright. Most common method of saltwater fish capture (85-90%) Length, height and mesh size determined by habitat and species mix collected. The fishes by and large live in established, limited space and most do return to the areas in front of the net, where they are corralled by the dive collectors, pushed into the fence net and then hand-netted from there. The collected fishes are transferred to collecting buckets that are anchored at depth, which are periodically lifted to shallower water to decompress the catch. The first principal source of damage occurs there in the netting phases. There are night time collectors of BF fish. These and other reef fishes lay down in the dark, under overhangs and crannies. Most all night-time collected specimens are too large adults; poor shippers and adapters to aquarium life. Some have been bred using hormonal treatment and others collected and raised from the larval stage. These have been trained to eat pellet food even though in the wild they exclusively eat coral polyps. Stress-Induced hunger Strike: Hobbyist What this results in is a greatly stressed animal that needs to be handled gingerly; catered to in terms of recognizable foods, and NOT placed amongst an established, competitive population of tankmates initially. What this translates to in actuality in covered below under foods/feeding/nutrition. The Most Appropriate, Best Technology Available for Successful BF Keeping Selecting the Best Species, Specimens: Selecting the Best Species, Specimens: This is a threshold level decision. You are committing to support another living thing by purchasing it. Your success depends at least on two considerations: the species and individuals you choose. Believe me, there is a HUGE variation in the likelihood of those that will live in your systems and those that rarely adapt. Two examples of commonly sold (especially in Europe) BFs that seldom survive are Chaetodon semilarvatus and C. larvatus Bob the Fisherman’s Hot/Cold List: Everyone who has been in the trade and/or hobby has their own list of best and least liked organisms, one’s that generally make it and those that don’t. Here is my opinions regarding chaetodonts after handling a few tens of thousands over the last forty years. A couple of explanations: Common and scientific names are those most often used in the USA; no apology or vain attempt at completeness is offered here; I know there is going to be no absolute agreement on what I’m putting forth here, but I’ll gladly stand by my assessments; they are borne out of many individuals being examined from many origins, size ranges, shipping modalities, etc. Best Species: Stocking: My 1, 2, 3 Scoring System Though not all species on the planet have been scientifically tested for aquarium suitability, there is good consensus concerning which are better in terms of staying alive through collection, distribution and beyond. Various writers have devised different scoring schemes for relating these data; my own involves a simple three tier labeling: #1 scored species are those where half or more specimens live three months or longer (given suitable environment and good care of course) Typically live longer than one month, but more than half perish before a quarter year in captivity The worst with most specimens dying off within a month of acquisition Now don’t be entirely dissuaded into trying non-1 rated species; as you can see that these scores are for an “average’ number of specimens; some dying sooner, a few living a long life in captivity. Who knows, perhaps you will discover and disseminate useful information on sustaining a delicate species. The #3 BFs are commonly sold as “miscellaneous butterfly fish” (Chaetodon miscellanea???) Selecting the best species is easier than you might assume; as only a few dozen of the 130 species described of BFs are collected in the trade, and of those half are hardy. Selecting the Best Species: Best Species: Stocking: My 1’s Chaetodon fasciatus and C. lunula are the red Sea and Indo-Pacific Raccoon BFs; both are general omnivores that can live well on prepared diets. Though expensive due to being deep water dwellers, occurring in fewer numbers and sometimes living in out of the way, limited distributions, the five members (C. R. burgessi, C. R. declivis, C. R. tinkeri, C. R. mitratus, C. R. flavocoronatus) that make up the subgenus Roaops of the genus Chaetodon are top picks for aquarium hardiness and beauty. General omnivore (zooplanktavores) that does not eat coral. Not to despair, I, Gerald Allen, Roger Steerne, Scott Michael and others have other top rated species in this family. Other Chaetodons include C. collare, and C. daedaima. From Hawaii: C. kleiri, C. melonnotus, C. mertensii, C. metaris From Red Sea: C. paucifasciatus, C. punctatofasciatus Other Genera of Top BF Picks! What? Where are the Longnose BFs of the genus Forcipiger? The Chelmons, Chelmonops, Prognathodes …? In point of fact, these other Butterfly fishes are NOT 1’s, but 2’s and 3’s historically. Are you hoping to improve their score? Good; heed below regarding how to pick out the best specimens and pay attention to the notes above concerning their environmental, social and nutritional needs and you likely will. Avoiding Worse Species, Specimens The “Other” BFs, the 2’s and 3’s: A few mostly coral polyp feeders (easy to catch but difficult to feed): C. aureofasciatus, C. baronessa, C. austriacus Others often sold as “miscellaneous butterfly fish”: C. bennetti, C. lunulatus, C. ornatissimus, C. plebeius. From Hawaii: C. meyeri and C. octofasciatus Selecting the Best Specimen Foods/Feeding/Nutrition: Of course it’s advised that you ask your dealer to demonstrate that your prospective BF purchases are currently eating; though being moved again may inspire a food strike; and at times all fishes do give up feeding for mysterious reasons. There is a positive correlation with BFs ranked as “1’s” and general omnivororousness. The better species are mostly zooplanktivores and small demersal (bottom) invertebrate feeders. Too skinny Saddleback: Tummy and above head Once acclimated to the isolation system it is imperative that you monitor your new Butterfly fishes for interest in feeding, and offer suitable items. Initially live, in-place food organisms are best, fresh/biota-rich live rock and substrate are ideal., so the BFs can pick at leisure. Additionally trying live worms (even freshwater origin like Tubificids) and small crustaceans is encouraged. Should you be unfortunate as to not have live foods available, or the wherewithal to try culturing them yourself then frozen and yes, highly palatable (e.g. Spectrum, Hikari…) small pelleted foods should be proffered a few times, during “lights on”, and fish observed for interest. IF you have some live foods, including freshwater Tubificids, try mixing a growing proportion of non-live with them to expand interest in other forms of food. If you do not have much experience, get a club member to go with you to a store to show you what traits to look for and avoid. Observe the fishes offered closely: Avoid fishes showing any reddening at the mouth, body or fin origins. Abandon the whole tank if other butterfly fish is similarly marked or off-color in the system. Butterflyfish commonly have flukes. Observe the fishes offered closely: Pair, Trios? Skip buying them as pairs, trios, etc. of a given species unless they appear closely associated at the dealers. Heniochus in particular are very prone to harass one another unless kept in HUGE systems. Start with Smallish-Medium Sized Specimens – not too small, not too big: Starting with smaller, younger specimens is advantageous in that they have not firmly established food preferences. Very small individuals (less than 2-2.5 inches overall length) are easily lost to collection, holding damage and starvation in transit. It is the “too big” ones, dependent on species, but more than four inches let’s say, that are hard to feed on novel foods. Though a species may be known to be an obligate corallivore, accepting only live coral polyps as food in the wild, DO try proffering chopped clam, scallop, shrimp, and shaved fish fillet to them…. Placed on rock as well as spritzed into the discharge of a water pump or powerhead. Also, DO try adding a feeding stimulant via soaking foods ahead of offering. Vitamins, HUFAs and more will often excite a reluctant feeder into trying novel foods. As stated, these fish feed continuously during the day, so small amounts of feed offered every few hours by you or on automatic feeder are preferential to once/twice per day. It used to be that the longed-nose Butterflies were considered impossible to keep, refusing all foods. Now with better handling of specimens, more stable and optimized reef settings, and enormously enlarged assortment of live, frozen, dried pelleted…foods, many species are being kept that previously were doomed. Captive Bred Specimens Presently all BFs are wild-collected Long Tholichthys pelagic-larval period (up to two months); difficult to feed during this time A few species have spawned in public aquariums There have been attempts to induce reproduction No young have been raised to maturity as of yet Fr. Polynesia/Moorea collection of post-settlement larval BFs has yielded individuals of some species that accept other than coral polyps as food. Disease Treatments For Importers Prophylactic Treatment is Best: I strongly suggest wholesalers use routine freshwater dipping, copper and antibiotic treatment of all new arrivals at the wholesale/importer/retail level, and at least a few days quarantine there for resting. Health of the stock effects the trade/hobby The hobby loses about 100% of its customer base every year; more aquariums are in attic and basements than actually set up. Many leave because of “anomalous loses”. If more retailers/wholesalers knew what species do not survive they would stop collecting/selling them For retailers: Avoid long-term Copper Exposure Long term exposure has a debilitating effect on Clowns, Angels and butterfly fish. CLEAN WATER is important, as in “reef quality”; suggest use of Ozone, GAC, refugiums/DSBs, RDP, macro-algal culture….
  42. 1 point
    I feel for you my friend.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Saltwater Mushrooms Acan Kenya tree Palys
  45. 1 point
    He's actually doing really well now, I think he was just so starved from the store that it took a while for him to level out. I've actually had to cut back on the nori because he got so fat. Now he's a happy little guy that spends most of his days fat and happy sitting on his seaweed.
  46. 1 point
    I may give it a try, I always wanted to try Tropic Marine Pro. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  47. 1 point
    Lol. It's leaving for Fantasy Fest at Halloween in Key West. It leaves now it might have a chance to make it in time. Sent from my SM-J700P using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    Lol. Ok, I amend my statement to a "reduced rock look"
  49. 1 point
    bif24701...Thanks. I've been researching both and I think I'm leaning towards the potassium nitrate (cheap and readily available). Thanks for all the feedback!
  50. 1 point
    Where are they located ?